Paul and Jess Go Global

We walked along The Great Wall of China!!! It was amazing. We did a tour as it worked out to be just a little more than if you did it yourself on a public bus and you got lunch included and the ease of being picked up at the hotel and not getting lost. Unbelievably it took 4 hours to get there and it is only 90km outside of Beijing!! Something that we are still getting used to is the fact that it just takes forever to get anywhere in China. We got to Jinshanling about midday - just in time for the searing heat of the day. And I have to tuck my tail between my legs and admit that we did get the cable car BUT I would just like to clarify it was a cable car to the wall, not instead of doing the walk :0) We were told that we could walk to the wall but it was very steep and that it would take an hour and the best views of the wall are from the cable car, so how could we refuse? What we have since found out is that you come across a lot of tall stories in China and we later found out that it only took 30 mins. I was starting to get worried as we were ascending the hills that if this was the best view then I would be a little disapointed. The view was not that great from the cable car actually but as soon as we hiked the rest of the way to the wall we were not to be disappointed. How they built this wall is astounding. The hills are steep and go on for miles around. The wall is actually filled with dirt and the "shell" is made from stone. Dotted along it are towers which are a wonderful relief from the heat of the day as you walk along it. The first section was particularly tough. In some parts it was like climbing a stone ladder!!! How they used to use the wall to transport food and goods or relay messages along it easily I will not understand. We did the less touristy excursion to the wall from Jinshanling to Simatai and I am so glad that we did. One guy on the same bus as us had done 3 different trips to the wall and although he was not disappointed with any he said that the one that we were on was the best. I was very pleased to hear that. I had heard that there are hawkers on the wall selling water, coke and can you believe beer. These little Mongolian people are like mountain goats and are very persistant. You get to learn the phrase "Booyar" very quickly (I dont want) we had one woman follow us for nearly 20 mins. They are naturally very inquisitve people and you have to remember that they are very poor and only trying to earn some money but it can be a little frustrating. I am surprisingly OK with it but it is the only time I have ever seen Paul get a little worked up - Patience it the theme of this trip let me tell you.

We have just spent 3 consecutive nights on hard sleeper trains. For those that have not been in a hard sleeper carriage I will just briefly explain. Each "room" is about 2.5 metres wide (8ft for those that are old school) and on each side is 3 beds, each stacked on top of the other. The beds are only about 1m wide (3ft). There is just about enough space to sit upright on the bottom bunk and the space between them gets smaller until at the top you can only just rest up on your elbow. We were lucky on the trip to Datong, we had the bottom bunks. On the way back I had the lower bunk and Paul had the top and then on the way to Luoyang we both had the top bunks. Paul is right it doesn't make that much difference one you are settled in for the night but if you are like me and have a bladder the size of a peanut it can get a bit of a hassle clambering in and out of bed.

I was pleasantly surprised by Datong. The Lonely Planet paints it in a bit of a bad light and yes it is dirty but I have yet to see a part of China that isn't (I still have my fingers crossed). When we got there we desperately needed to freshen up but the first stop was to find the CITS office (Chinese International Tourist Office), they charge a bit of commission but it takes the hassles out of things which is a relief if you cant speak or read Mandarin. We thought it was going to be a pain finding the office but there was a guy waiting to the exit of the station CITS meeting office. We easily organised our trip to the Hanging Temple and Yungang Caves and our return train trip back. We were really happy abot this as we had to be back in Beijing for the next evening as we had already booked our hostel and train trip to Longman. Anyway, time to freshen up and this is where it all becomes all about Paul. The poor bugger needed to do his morning, what shall we call it???? "Routine"! and we didn't have a hotel room for the day so had to brave public toilet. Let me just tell you that when I went to the ladies I could smell the loos from the train waiting room which is about 20m away!! Wretchhhhhh!!!! Anyhoo, Paul comes back all red faced. His door wouldnt lock, and it was one of those doors that opens outwards, as he was squatting (Chineese toilets are holes in the floor) he lost his balance and went to put his hand out and flung the toilet door open and some poor chinese man got a smack in the face and was not only stunned by that but got an eyefull of Paul with his undies round his ankles!!!! Hee hee hee!! Poor bugger!!!

The Hanging Monastry was amazing. It is a Buddhist temple built 50m up the face of a cliff and is about 1500 years old. It was a bit scary going into it and made my somach lurch a few times. The Yunang Caves are again about 1500 years old. They are manmade caves, they would climb up the cliff and chissel a small tunnel and then continue to carve the cave from top to bottom, this enabled the light to come in so they could se what they were doing. The carving are phenominal, truely breathtaking.

We met a lovely couple in Datong after the tour and we had dinner with them before we had to get the train back. it was a real bonus that Max was born in China and could speak Mandarin so we left the ordering of the meal to him and feasted on the most amazing banquet to date. Lots of fresh veggies and beancurd and stewed fish - beautiful. The cab trip to their hotel was interesting though, Paul seems to fascintate the Chinese. Usually we get stares when we walk around and that is to be expected as we do look quite different but as Paul was sitting in the front and the lady taxi diver could not keep her eyes off of him. Paul as you know is very shy so he did blush quite a bit. Max was talking to her and we found out that she was mesmerised by his freckles!!! It hadn't even crossed my mind that they might find that interesting. Asians you see dont get freckles. Max reckons that if he hadn't told her that we were married that she would have tried to take him home!! Go Paulie!!!

Yesterday we went to Longman Grottoes. More cave carvings, later than Louyang and again very beautiful. There were many more caves but a lot of damage had been done during the Cultural Revolution and some vandalism and some removed for museums, which is a real shame. I would say that Yungang was more impressive Longman is definately more touristy - they even have golf buggies to take you from the entrance to the cave - we did not do this.

Anyway out of time again, love to everyone. Until next time Mwah, Mwah xxxxx Off to Xian today.......